Wandering Emerald

Before You Look Up the Flights, Read This

Merald Ayson — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 04:33:28 GMT

There’s a particular feeling I’ve been trying to name for years.

It’s not wanderlust. That word has been used so many times it’s stopped meaning anything. It’s not the thrill of arriving somewhere new, either, though that part is real. It’s the feeling that hits a little later: usually on a slow afternoon, when you’ve stopped following the map and started paying attention. When a stranger says something that shifts the way you see the whole place. When you realize that what you’re standing in front of has a hundred years of weight behind it, and you almost walked past it.

That feeling is the closest thing I have to a reason for this blog.

What Wandering Emerald Is, and What It Isn’t

Wandering Emerald isn’t really a “top ten things to do in” website. There are plenty of those, and they do their job well enough. Though I also write some of them, I try to minimize my focus on such type of content. This is something else.

It’s a travel blog built around one belief: that a place is more interesting when you understand it. Its history. The people who live there now. The natural world around it and what it’s been through. You don’t have to be a scholar to care about any of that. You just have to be curious.

So the stories here won’t just tell you where to go. They’ll tell you what you’re actually looking at when you get there.

And the guides won’t assume you have infinite money, a passport that opens every door, or a travel agent handling the hard parts. I’m talking about the visa walkthroughs, the budget breakdowns, the honest logistics. I’m Filipino. I actively use a Philippine passport. I know what it means to research a trip around a visa requirement, to calculate whether a destination is actually possible, to want honest information instead of aspirational content.

That’s the other thing this blog is. A practical resource for Filipino travelers and the like who are figuring it out, just like I have been.

Why Now

I’ve been traveling for a while now, mostly slowly, mostly because remote work gave me the room to stay somewhere longer than a weekend. And the longer I stayed in places, the more I noticed how much a quick visit misses.

Not because quick trips are bad. They’re not. But understanding a place takes a little more time and a little more attention than a highlights reel allows. I kept wanting to write about that gap: between what a place looks like from the outside and what it actually is.

This blog is where I’m finally doing that.

Who This Is For

If you travel because you’re genuinely curious about the world, or you want to start, you’re in the right place. I’m not writing for adrenaline-seekers or luxury-travelers or people chasing a bucket list. I’m writing for people who like to understand things.

And if you’re a Filipino traveler who’s ever Googled “can Filipinos get a visa to [somewhere]” at 11pm, stressed about whether your budget is enough, or felt like most travel content wasn’t really written with you in mind: this is especially for you.

What to Expect

Two kinds of content live here.

Emerald Stories are the narrative pieces: history, culture, people, nature, and the occasional honest reflection on what a place taught me. They’re meant to be read, not skimmed.

Guides are the practical side: visas, budgets, bookings, step-by-step logistics. Clear, honest, and realistic. I’ll always note when something was last updated, because travel information has a shelf life.

Both types will carry the same voice: calm, curious, and written for a real person, not a search algorithm.

One Last Thing Before You Wander

This is the beginning, so the archive is small. But it’ll grow, slowly and deliberately, the way I think travel should be. Every story and guide published here will have been somewhere I’ve actually been, something I’ve actually figured out, or a question I actually sat with long enough to write about honestly.

There’s no grand mission statement here, no manifesto. Just a blog, a belief that understanding is worth the effort, and an open door.

Start anywhere. If something makes you curious, follow that.

Myanmar Travel Guide: What It’s Actually Like to Visit in 2026

Merald Ayson — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 18:55:54 GMT

I want to be upfront: Myanmar (formerly Burma) is not an easy destination to recommend. The country has been in a civil conflict since the 2021 military coup, and the situation is complicated, fluid, and genuinely dangerous in certain areas. I traveled there in October and November 2025, and this guide is my honest account of what travel actually looks like on the ground right now.

Not to glamorize it. Not to scare you away. Just to tell you what I saw, what I learned, and what you need to know if you’re seriously considering going.

Myanmar holds some of the most extraordinary things I’ve witnessed as a traveler: ancient temples, golden pagodas, and people so warm and resilient it left me quietly in awe. But it demands that you show up prepared, aware, and responsible.

The Situation in Myanmar Right Now (Updated June 2026)

Since the military coup in February 2021, Myanmar has been in an ongoing civil war. The military junta (officially known as the State Administration Council, or SAC) has controlled major cities and key infrastructure, while armed resistance groups have remained active across border regions and rural areas. By early 2026, the junta controlled roughly 60% of Myanmar’s territory, with significant resistance presence elsewhere.

In late 2025, the junta held a multi-phase general election widely criticized by international observers as illegitimate. Voting took place in December 2025 and January 2026, only in areas under junta control, resulting in a military-dominated legislature. In April 2026, junta leader Min Aung Hlaing was inaugurated as president. Most Western governments did not recognize the election as free or fair, and international isolation of the regime continues.

As of 2026, the US State Department maintains a Level 4: Do Not Travel advisory for Myanmar. The UK, Australia, Canada, and the EU have issued similar high-level advisories.

That is the reality you’re traveling into. Before anything else, check the latest advisory from your own government. Buy travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation. This is not a trip where you skip that step.

Which Areas Are Accessible

Despite the advisories, the core tourist circuit, Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay, remains functional and relatively accessible. Daily life continues in these cities: markets are open, transport runs, hotels operate. Tourist infrastructure is reduced but present.

Beyond these zones, the situation deteriorates sharply. Border states, rural areas, and any region not under firm junta control carry much higher and less predictable risk. Do not venture outside the established tourist circuit.

Zone	Status	Verdict
Yangon	Junta-controlled, functioning city	Accessible with caution
Bagan	Tourist circuit, reduced capacity	Accessible with caution
Mandalay	Junta-controlled, active city	Accessible with caution
Inle Lake	Generally calm; verify before visiting	Approach with extra caution
Border states (Kachin, Shan, Kayah, etc.)	Active conflict zones	Do not travel
Remote rural areas	Volatile, rapidly changing	Do not travel

Entry Requirements

How to Get In

You can only enter Myanmar by air, through Yangon International Airport (RGN) or Mandalay International Airport (MDL). Land borders are closed to tourists.

Most international flights connect through Bangkok, Singapore, or Kuala Lumpur. The flight from Bangkok to Yangon is under two hours.

Visas

Entry requirements depend on your nationality. Most travelers will need either an e-Visa obtained in advance or a visa on arrival at the airport.

The Myanmar e-Visa is the most reliable option for most travelers. Apply at least one week before your trip to allow for processing. You will need:

A passport valid for at least 6 months from your date of entry
A recent passport-sized photograph meeting Myanmar’s photo standards
Proof of onward or return travel
Proof of accommodation for the duration of your stay

Apply at the official Myanmar e-Visa portal. Avoid third-party agencies that charge inflated fees.

Money: Cash Is Everything

This is one of the most important practical things to understand before you go. Myanmar’s banking system has been severely disrupted since the coup. ATMs are unreliable, credit cards are rarely accepted, and digital payments are essentially nonexistent for tourists. You are operating in a near-total cash economy.

What Cash to Bring

Bring US dollars, specifically new, crisp, unmarked $100 bills. This cannot be stressed enough. Money changers across Myanmar are extremely particular about the condition of USD bills. Any fold, ink mark, pen mark, or tear, and they will not accept the note. Bring your cleanest bills.
Understand there are two exchange rates. The official government rate (what you get at banks or airport counters) is notably lower than the street or market rate. The market rate can run 30-40% better. Your local guide can take you to a trusted money changer in Yangon or Mandalay.
Change only what you need. You cannot easily convert Myanmar Kyat (MMK) back to USD when you leave.
ATMs in major cities sometimes work but follow the government rate and are frequently out of service or out of cash. Small towns may have no reliable banking access at all.

Payment Method	Availability	Notes
US Dollars (crisp, new)	Widely accepted for exchange	Bring $100s only, unmarked
Myanmar Kyat (MMK)	Required for daily spending	Obtain from trusted money changers
Credit / Debit Cards	Rarely accepted	Do not rely on these
ATMs	Inconsistent	Use only as last resort; government rate applies
Digital Payments	Not available for tourists	Not applicable

Connectivity: VPN, SIM, and Power

Install a VPN Before You Board

Myanmar’s internet is heavily restricted and monitored by the military government. Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter are blocked. During periods of unrest, access can become even more limited. Install a VPN before you leave home, not at the airport and not at the hotel. Once you’re in the country, downloading and setting up a VPN becomes significantly harder.

Most locals use JumpJumpVPN. I used it, and the free version works but drops the connection every 20 minutes or so, which gets tedious. For a more seamless experience, NordVPN, ProtonVPN, and Surfshark are all solid paid options.

Local SIM

Atom Mobile offers acceptable coverage across Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay. Pick up a SIM on arrival at the airport. You can also purchase one in shops in the city. The locals can help you set it up and top up with prepaid packages. Atom Mobile also offers eSIM and you can purchase it online ahead of your arrival if that is more convenient to you.

Power Outages

Power outages are a real part of daily life here: not constant, but regular, especially outside main city centers. Keep a fully charged power bank at all times. Download offline maps before you fly (Google Maps and Maps.me both work offline).

Safety: What It Actually Feels Like

I felt safe throughout my trip, and I want to be honest about what that means and what it does not.

Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay are under military control and functioning as urban centers. Daily life is happening. The visible violence, the airstrikes and armed clashes, is occurring in border regions and conflict zones, not in these cities. But “safe” is relative. The tension is real even when it is quiet. The situation can change. The responsibility for staying safe falls largely on you.

Practical Safety Rules

Stay within Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay. Do not travel to border states or remote areas.
Avoid political conversations in public. This protects you and, more importantly, the locals you are talking with.
Do not photograph soldiers, military vehicles, or checkpoints. The risk is real and not worth any photograph.
Respect curfew hours. Curfews are generally in effect from midnight to 4 AM in major cities, though hours can change.
Register your trip with your embassy before you leave.
Buy travel insurance that covers emergency evacuation. SafetyWing is a solid option for travelers.

What struck me most throughout the trip was not the tension but the people. Warm, generous, and genuinely glad you were there, even amid everything they are living through. That says a great deal about them.

Why You Should Hire a Local Guide

In Myanmar right now, a local guide is not just a convenience. It is a genuine safety asset and the single best decision you can make for this trip.

My guides, Nway Nway and Aung, made the trip what it was. Nway Nway helped me navigate the city, understand which routes to take, and find the quieter, more honest side of Myanmar. She is also a local fashion designer, and before I left, she gave me a handcrafted tote bag she had made herself. One of the more thoughtful moments of the whole trip. She invited me for afternoon tea and insisted on paying: that kind of easy, uncalculated generosity is rare anywhere in the world.

Aung brought a different kind of depth to the experience. He shared stories about the junta, the resistance, and what daily life under the current regime actually looks like. His perspective was grounded, clear-eyed, and the kind of thing you do not get from any travel article. Beyond safety, having guides made the trip mean something.

If you want a recommendation, send me a message, and I will connect you with Nway Nway and her team personally. You can also learn more and visit their website (that I made for them!) here: Myanmar Tour Guide.

Where to Stay

Yangon: The Largest City

I did not stay overnight in Yangon. I explored the city during the day and boarded an overnight VIP bus to Bagan that evening. This is a completely viable move: the overnight buses are comfortable (reclining seats, blankets, charging ports, rest stops), and you save on a night’s accommodation while waking up in Bagan. If you prefer a proper night’s rest before heading north, there are good hotel options in Yangon.

Check Available Hotels in Yangon via Booking.com

Bagan: Ostello Bello Hostel

For solo travelers or anyone who enjoys being around other travelers, Ostello Bello is the place to stay in Bagan. The hostel has a genuinely social atmosphere: the kind where you end up having dinner with strangers and planning a sunrise temple run together by the end of the night.

The staff can arrange e-bikes, tours, and onward transport without any hassle. Clean beds, a pool, daily activities, and two branches: one in New Bagan and one in Nyaung-U.

Book Ostello Bello Bagan via Booking.com

Mandalay: Dragon Phoenix Hotel

After a few days of temple-hopping and long bus rides, Dragon Phoenix Hotel was exactly what I needed: comfortable, clean, and uncomplicated. Reliable Wi-Fi (as reliable as anywhere in Myanmar), a solid buffet breakfast, and staff who helped arrange local transport without any fuss. The location also puts you close to the main attractions.

Book Dragon Phoenix Hotel Mandalay via Booking.com

What to Eat

Burmese food draws from its neighbors. Indian, Thai, and Chinese influences all show up, but the cuisine has its own distinct identity. It tends to be spicy, earthy, and oily, with a lot of depth.

Dish	What It Is	Good For
Mohinga	Fish-based noodle soup; Myanmar’s national breakfast	Everyone, mild enough for those who prefer less heat
Lahpet thoke	Fermented tea leaf salad with peanuts, beans, and garlic	The most distinctively Burmese dish you’ll eat
Curry plates	Rice with multiple curries, sides, and condiments	A full meal; heat level varies by restaurant
Shan noodles	Rice noodles in a light broth, from Shan State	Lighter option, widely available

I do not handle heat particularly well, and some dishes pushed my limits. With guidance from Nway Nway, I found plenty of milder options I genuinely loved. Let your guide point you toward local spots rather than restaurants aimed purely at tourists. The food and the experience are both better.

What to Pack

Item	Why You Need It
Crisp US $100s, unmarked	The cash economy requires it
Fully charged power bank	Brownouts are regular. Keep it loaded every night.
VPN installed and tested	Install at home before you fly. Social media is blocked.
Offline maps (Google Maps or Maps.me)	Download before arrival. Useful during outages.
Modest clothing (shoulders and knees covered)	Required at religious sites
Slip-on shoes	You’ll remove them constantly at pagodas and temples
Sunscreen and insect repellent	Essential in Bagan, where you’re outdoors most of the day
Small flashlight or headlamp	Useful during power outages
Digital and physical copies of passport and insurance	Keep both on you at all times
Travel insurance documents (emergency evacuation included)	Non-negotiable for this destination

A 7-Day Itinerary: Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay

This route keeps you within the three safest and most accessible tourist zones while giving you a genuine sense of what Myanmar is about. It is the route I would recommend.

Day 1: Arrive in Yangon

Most international flights into Myanmar connect through Bangkok, Singapore, or Kuala Lumpur. On arrival in Yangon, head straight to Shwedagon Pagoda for the evening. This is Myanmar’s most sacred Buddhist site, and watching the golden stupa catch the last light of the day is one of those moments that stays with you.

Day 2: Explore Yangon, Then Board the Night Bus

Yangon has a distinct colonial-era character that rewards a day on foot. Visit Sule Pagoda, wander Bogyoke Aung San Market, and walk the old downtown streets. For food, try mohinga and lahpet thoke at a local spot your guide recommends. In the evening, board the overnight VIP bus to Bagan.

Days 3-4: Bagan

Bagan is the reason most people come to Myanmar. There are over 2,000 surviving temples and pagodas spread across the plains: some grand, some crumbling, some tucked far enough off the path that you’ll have them entirely to yourself. Rent an e-bike and explore without a fixed route.

Ananda Temple, Dhammayangyi, and Shwezigon Pagoda are worth seeking out.
You can also ride a horse cart, and the coachman will take you around the ancient temples.
Check if the hot air balloons are operating. You can buy a ticket for a sunrise ride to experience a majestic bird’s-eye view of Bagan. They are one of the cheapest hot air balloon rides in the world.
The quieter, lesser-visited temples often hit harder than the famous ones.
Wake up early at least once for sunrise. The mist rising over thousands of pagodas in the morning light is beautiful in a way that photographs cannot capture properly. You have to be there.

Days 5-6: Mandalay

Take the bus from Bagan to Mandalay, a few hours and manageable. Mandalay is noisier and more chaotic than Bagan, but it has its own depth.

The Jade Pagoda: a beautiful temple constructed almost entirely of jade, reportedly the only one of its kind in the world. Quieter than the bigger sites and genuinely impressive.
Kuthodaw Pagoda: An archive made manifest. The entire Tipitaka (the sacred Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism) is carved into stone tablets surrounding the main pagoda on Mandalay Hill. Each tablet is a page. Walking through them, you sense the scale of the text and the devotion it took to translate faith into stone.
U Bein Bridge at sunset: a 1.2-kilometer teak bridge stretching across Taungthaman Lake in Amarapura. This is the longest wooden bridge in the world. Walk it at dusk. You can also take a boat ride on Taungthaman Lake. One of the best sunsets you’ll ever see!
A short boat ride on the Irrawaddy River rounds out the experience well.

Day 7: Head Home

Fly out of Mandalay directly, or take a bus back to Yangon if your onward flight departs from there. Build in buffer time. Transport in Myanmar runs on its own schedule.

The Ethical Question

Traveling to Myanmar right now involves a genuine ethical weight, and anyone considering going should sit with it honestly.

You are entering a country where people are suffering. Where the government in power arrived there through violence. Where your tourist dollars, however carefully you spend them, exist in a complicated space. These are real considerations.

I wrestled with the decision before I went. What helped me decide was the belief that visiting responsibly, spending directly with local guides, restaurants, guesthouses, and small businesses, puts money into the hands of people who need it rather than into government coffers. Avoiding government-run hotels and services is part of that.

That does not make the choice simple. But it does make it considered. If you go:

Hire a local guide.
Spend at local restaurants, guesthouses, and small businesses.
Avoid government-run hotels and services where possible.
Do not photograph anything that could put locals at risk.
Be patient, be humble, and pay attention.

Frequently asked questions

Is Myanmar safe for tourists in 2026?

It depends entirely on where you go. Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay remain accessible for travelers who prepare carefully. Border regions and rural areas experiencing active conflict are not safe and should not be visited. Check your government’s current travel advisory before booking, and buy travel insurance with emergency evacuation coverage.

Do I need a visa to visit Myanmar?

It depends on your nationality. Many travelers can apply for a Myanmar e-Visa online before departure. Check requirements for your specific passport with the Myanmar Ministry of Immigration or your own government’s travel authority, as rules have changed since 2021 and may continue to evolve.

What currency should I bring to Myanmar?

Bring US dollars: specifically crisp, new, unmarked $100 bills. Myanmar operates almost entirely on cash. Credit cards are rarely accepted, and ATMs are unreliable. Exchange dollars with a trusted money changer (your guide can help) to get the market rate rather than the official government rate.

Can I use social media in Myanmar?

Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter are blocked. Install a VPN before you leave home, not at the airport, not at the hotel. Once in the country, setting up a VPN becomes significantly harder. NordVPN, ProtonVPN, and Surfshark all work reliably.

Should I hire a local guide?

Yes, strongly. In Myanmar right now, a guide is a safety asset, not just a convenience. A good guide helps you navigate checkpoints, understand which areas to avoid, find trusted money changers, and reach places and conversations you’d never access on your own. It’s also one of the most direct ways to support local livelihoods.

Is Myanmar open to Western tourists?

Yes, the country is technically open to international visitors arriving by air at Yangon or Mandalay airports. However, most Western governments, including the US, UK, Australia, Canada, and EU member states, have issued Do Not Travel or equivalent advisories. Read your government’s advisory carefully before making any booking.

Have questions about traveling to Myanmar? Send me a message. I read and respond to all of them.

Traveling Myanmar in 2025: Beauty, Brokenness, and What I Found

Merald Ayson — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 20:02:22 GMT

The sun was going down over Bagan, and I didn’t want to move.

From a small hill at the edge of the ancient plain, I could see hundreds of pagodas and temples spreading in every direction: red-brick stupas rising from the dust, catching the last of the light. Some were crumbling. Some were gilded. All of them had been standing there for nearly a thousand years. I don’t know exactly what I felt in that moment. Ecstatic, maybe. Emotional, definitely. Like I had wandered into a place I had no right to be this lucky to see.

I waved goodbye to Bagan from that hill. I know how that sounds. But it felt like the only honest thing to do.

Myanmar had been doing that to me for weeks. Giving me moments of pure, overwhelming beauty, and then quietly sitting me down with its reality.

I visited in October and November 2025. Traveling to Myanmar means traveling under a military junta that has been in power since the 2021 coup, through a country still absorbing the shock of a devastating earthquake earlier that year, in a tourism industry running at a fraction of what it once was. I knew some of that before I went. You can’t really know all of it until you’re there.

In Yangon, I stood at the base of Shwedagon Pagoda and looked up. The stupa rises nearly a hundred meters above the city, and its surface is layered in gold plates, real gold, donated by devotees over centuries. At the very top: diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and other precious stones. In the right light, the whole thing glows. A guide told me the pagoda is believed to enshrine eight hairs of the historical Buddha, making it the holiest Buddhist site in Myanmar. Standing in front of it, you understand quickly why the Burmese hold it the way they do. It is not just a monument. It is where they go to believe in something.

Shwedagon is now my favorite pagoda anywhere I’ve been. That might sound like a strong claim. I’m keeping it.

My guide in Bagan was a woman named Nway. She is also a fashion designer: she makes her own clothes, sews them herself, carries herself with a kind of quiet, deliberate elegance. On the last day of my visit, she handed me a tote bag she had made specifically for me.

I’ve received gifts while traveling before. This one is different. Not because of what it is, but because of what I know it cost her—not in money, but in time and intention, from someone who has very little of either to spare.

Nway told me she hasn’t seen her family in years. Her village is near one of the conflict zones. Her sister, in her sixties, was taken by armed forces along with other village elders. No one knows if she’s still alive.

Before the coup, Nway was fully booked. Tourism was rebuilding, and Bagan was drawing visitors again. Now she gets one client a month, if she’s lucky. She wakes up anyway, puts on her thanaka, and shows up.

I kept waiting for her to ask me for something. She never did. She just gave.

In Yangon, I spent time with Aung, who has worked in tourism since 2003. He has watched his country through the 2007 Saffron Revolution, the brief democratic opening under Aung San Suu Kyi, and now this. That’s over two decades of loving a place and watching it suffer.

I asked him what he was most proud of as a Burmese person.

He said: “None.”

Then, after a pause: “We used to be proud. Now we just survive.”

I didn’t have anything to say to that. So I just listened.

This is part of what makes Myanmar so hard to sit with. The country is extraordinarily rich in rubies, jade, gold, natural gas, and oil. It has everything the earth can offer. Very little of that wealth has ever reached the people who live on top of it. Nway told me that many people in rural areas earn less than two dollars a day. Meanwhile, the junta controls the resource flows, the borders, and access to information. Internet access and social media are heavily restricted. Brownouts are a daily fact of life.

And somehow, the people still offer you tea.

I’ve thought about what it means to travel somewhere like this. Whether tourism helps or simply turns suffering into a backdrop. I don’t have a clean answer, and I’m not sure anyone does. What I know is that when you go with your eyes open, you come home carrying something that doesn’t go away. Not a lesson, exactly. More like a responsibility. The kind that asks you to pay attention, and to say something true when you get back.

Nway’s tote bag is sitting in my room right now. I look at it sometimes.

Myanmar is not a place that lets you stay comfortable. Its beauty is enormous and its pain is real, and both exist in the same frame: the same sunset over Bagan, the same city, the same conversation. The people carrying that every day, with more grace than most of us will ever be asked to find, deserve more than passing sympathy from travelers with return flights booked.

They deserve peace. The world should still be paying attention.

Philippine Airlines Just Joined Oneworld. Here’s What That Actually Means for You.

Merald Ayson — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 22:14:08 GMT

On June 6, 2026, at the International Air Transport Association’s Annual General Meeting in Rio de Janeiro, Philippine Airlines officially signed a Memorandum of Understanding to join the Oneworld Alliance. This makes PAL the 16th member of one of the world’s three major airline alliances, and only the second full-member carrier based in Southeast Asia.

If you fly PAL regularly, collect Mabuhay Miles, or travel internationally from the Philippines, this matters to you. Here’s what it means, what you stand to gain, and how to start making the most of it.

First: What Is a Global Airline Alliance?

An airline alliance is a partnership where member airlines agree to work together on routes, frequent flyer programs, and passenger perks. There are three major ones: Star Alliance (the largest), SkyTeam, and Oneworld.

Think of it this way. When you fly from Manila to Tokyo on PAL, then connect to London on British Airways, and then onward to New York on American Airlines. An alliance makes that journey feel like one trip. Your luggage gets checked through. Your status is recognized at each airline. You earn miles on every leg. And at big international hubs, you can access the same lounges regardless of which member airline you’re flying.

The Oneworld Alliance currently brings together 15 airlines: Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Fiji Airways, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Oman Air, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Air Maroc, Royal Jordanian, and SriLankan Airlines. Together, they cover nearly 1,000 destinations in over 170 countries and territories.

PAL has been one of Asia’s most prominent independent carriers, flying internationally without a formal alliance home for decades. That changes now.

What PAL Brings to the Table

PAL is Asia’s oldest commercial airline, founded in 1941. It currently operates nonstop flights from its hubs in Manila (MNL) and Cebu (CEB) to 29 domestic destinations and 40 international destinations across Asia, North America, Australia, and the Middle East.

When PAL formally enters the alliance (expected sometime in 2027), it will add 31 new destinations to the Oneworld network and open up one of the most distinctive domestic networks in Asia: the Philippine archipelago. Getting from Manila to Siargao, Davao, Cebu, or Palawan will become part of a seamless international journey for Oneworld travelers coming from anywhere in the world.

PAL also brings a fleet that is actively modernizing. In December 2025, it received its first Airbus A350-1000, the first of that aircraft type in Southeast Asia, and expects several more deliveries through 2026 and into 2027. A new nonstop Manila–Chicago route is confirmed to launch on November 9, 2026, further extending long-haul reach.

What Filipinos Gain

This is the part that matters most. Here’s what alliance membership unlocks for Filipino passengers once integration is fully complete.

1. Mabuhay Miles That Go Further

Right now, your Mabuhay Miles mostly live and die on PAL flights or a handful of bilateral partner agreements. Once Oneworld membership is fully active, you’ll be able to earn miles on every flight you take with any of the 16 member airlines, and redeem those miles across the entire alliance network.

That’s a meaningful change. Whether you’re flying to London on British Airways, catching a connection on Japan Airlines, or booking a leg on Qantas to Sydney, your Mabuhay Miles account will accumulate. And when you’re ready to redeem, you’ll have nearly 1,000 destinations to choose from.

2. Access to 700+ Airport Lounges Worldwide

Elite PAL members, specifically top-tier Mabuhay Miles cardholders, will gain Oneworld Priority status, which unlocks access to over 700 premium airport lounges across the alliance network. This includes Oneworld’s own branded lounges at Amsterdam Schiphol and Seoul Incheon, as well as partner lounges in most major international hubs.

For Filipinos who fly frequently for work or leisure, this is one of the most tangible, immediate perks. A lounge during a long layover in Doha, Tokyo, or Sydney isn’t a luxury. It’s a quieter, more comfortable way to travel.

3. Priority Check-In, Boarding, and Baggage Perks Across All Member Airlines

Oneworld elite status is recognized alliance-wide. If you hold top-tier status with PAL, you’ll receive priority check-in lanes, priority boarding, and additional baggage allowances when flying any member airline, not just PAL. The same works in reverse: an American AAdvantage Executive Platinum or Qantas Gold member flying PAL will recognize your airport as their own.

For frequent Filipino travelers connecting across multiple carriers, this removes a lot of the friction that comes with status that vanishes the moment you step onto a non-PAL plane.

4. Smoother Connections and Through-Checked Baggage

One of the most practical benefits of alliance membership is interline baggage agreements. When your journey involves multiple member airlines, your bags check through to your final destination. You don’t have to collect and re-check luggage at every hub.

Combined with coordinated scheduling and smoother connections at major hubs, a trip from Davao to New York, or from Cagayan de Oro to London, becomes a more coherent journey than it is today.

5. More Award Options for Existing Frequent Flyer Members

If you already hold elite status or points in another Oneworld program, say AAdvantage from American Airlines or Qantas Frequent Flyer, you’ll eventually be able to use those to book award seats on PAL. This matters especially for the Filipino diaspora in the United States and Australia, many of whom collect miles on American or Qantas but have limited options for getting home to Manila affordably on points.

What’s in It for the Other Airlines and Countries

Alliance membership is a two-way street. PAL’s addition is good for Oneworld’s other members and their passengers, too.

For American Airlines flyers (particularly the large Filipino-American community in the US), PAL adds meaningful connectivity into the Philippines and onward into the rest of Southeast Asia. American’s CEO Robert Isom, who chairs the Oneworld Governing Board, welcomed PAL’s entry specifically for this reason. Routes like Los Angeles–Manila, San Francisco–Manila, and the upcoming Chicago–Manila nonstop become bookable through AAdvantage award seats once integration is done.

For Qantas frequent flyers in Australia, PAL deepens Southeast Asia coverage. Manila–Sydney and Manila–Melbourne are popular routes that Australians travel frequently, and having PAL inside the alliance makes points redemptions on those routes more accessible.

For Oneworld as a whole, PAL fills a gap. Malaysia Airlines has been the alliance’s only Southeast Asian full member. The Philippines is a high-traffic travel market with a massive, globally dispersed diaspora: OFWs and Filipino communities in North America, the Middle East, Europe, and Australia generate significant demand for international routes. PAL’s domestic network also gives international Oneworld travelers better access to the Philippine archipelago, opening up destinations like Siargao, Palawan, and the Visayas to connection itineraries that weren’t practical before.

How Oneworld Membership Actually Works: The Timeline

It’s important to understand that the announcement on June 6, 2026, was a Memorandum of Understanding, a commitment to join, not a completed membership. The formal entry is expected sometime in 2027. What that means practically:

Stage	What Happens	When (Approx.)
MOU Signed	PAL officially committed to joining Oneworld	June 6, 2026
Member-Designate Period	Integration work begins: codeshares, IT systems, fare loading, staff training	2026–2027
Formal Alliance Entry	PAL becomes a full Oneworld member	Early 2027
Full Benefit Activation	Miles earn/redeem, lounge access, elite reciprocity all live	After formal entry, possibly phased

Some partnerships are already live or in progress. Qatar Airways launched reciprocal miles earning and redemption with PAL in May 2026. Alaska Airlines added PAL as a partner last year. These early agreements were a preview of what’s now a formal alliance relationship.

Full traveler-facing benefits, including partner award bookings, elite status reciprocity, and lounge access across all member airlines, activate after systems integration is complete. That typically follows the formal entry date by additional months, so patience is part of this.

How to Start Maximizing This as a Filipino Traveler

You don’t have to wait until 2027 to start preparing. Here’s what to do now.

If You Don’t Have a Mabuhay Miles Account Yet

Sign up for Mabuhay Miles now, even if you don’t fly PAL often. Enrollment is free. Once the alliance is live, your account becomes the entry point for earning and redeeming across Oneworld’s entire network. Getting your account active early means you’re ready when the benefits switch on.

If You Already Have Mabuhay Miles

Check your current tier. Oneworld Priority benefits are tied to elite status, not just account ownership. If you’re a Mabuhay Miles Premier, Elite, or Elite Plus member, you’ll have different levels of access to lounge privileges and reciprocal benefits. Understand where you sit before the integration so you know what to expect.

If You Hold Points in Another Oneworld Program

If you already collect AAdvantage (American Airlines) or Qantas Frequent Flyer or Avios (British Airways/Iberia), you’ll eventually be able to use those points to book PAL award seats. Watch for announcements on when award availability opens on PAL through each program. Award seats on PAL have historically been accessible because so few programs could book them. That may change once the alliance is fully live.

The Award Window to Watch

Aviation loyalty experts are flagging this: award availability on PAL routes tends to be relatively open right now, because demand hasn’t caught up yet. Once Oneworld programs can all access PAL seats, competition for award space on popular routes (Manila–Los Angeles, Manila–Sydney, Manila–San Francisco) will increase. If you have points in any Oneworld program and are considering a trip that involves PAL, it’s worth monitoring availability early.

Connecting Flights: What Changes in Practice

This is probably the most underappreciated benefit of alliance membership, and the one that changes day-to-day travel most visibly. Right now, if your trip involves PAL on one leg and a foreign carrier on another, those are treated as two separate bookings: separate check-ins, separate baggage, separate queues, and no recognition of your status on either end. Alliance membership changes that structure.

Here’s what it means concretely, through the kinds of trips Filipinos actually take.

Scenario 1: Manila to Europe (via Doha or London)

PAL does not fly to Europe directly, and has no immediate plans to. That’s worth saying plainly. But the alliance gives you a coordinated path there through partner hubs.

The most natural routing today: Manila (PAL) → Doha (Qatar Airways) → Madrid, London, Paris, Rome, or Amsterdam (Qatar Airways or Iberia).

Qatar Airways already has live reciprocal earning with PAL since May 2026. That partnership is already in motion. Once the full alliance integration is complete, this routing becomes a single cohesive ticket. Your bag gets checked through from Manila to, say, Barcelona. You earn Mabuhay Miles on both the PAL leg and the Qatar Airways leg. If you’re a top-tier Mabuhay member, Qatar’s Al Mourjan lounge in Doha is accessible during your layover. Your boarding priority and baggage allowance carry over from one carrier to the next.

Alternatively: Manila (PAL) → London Heathrow (British Airways) → onward to anywhere in Europe. British Airways’ network from Heathrow is extensive: Paris, Frankfurt, Madrid, Rome, Helsinki via Finnair, and more. London becomes your European gateway, and the PAL–BA connection becomes part of one alliance itinerary.

What this means in practice: before the alliance, you were booking a PAL ticket and a separate Qatar or BA ticket, checking in twice, and hoping your bags made the connection. After integration, a travel agent or the airline’s own booking tool can issue a single through-ticket, your luggage is checked to your final destination, and your status travels with you.

Route	PAL Leg	Connecting Carrier	Hub
Manila → London	MNL → LHR (direct)	British Airways (Europe onward)	London Heathrow
Manila → Madrid / Rome / Paris	MNL → DOH (PAL)	Qatar Airways or Iberia	Doha
Manila → Helsinki / Stockholm	MNL → HEL via DOH or HKG	Finnair	Helsinki
Manila → Frankfurt / Zurich	MNL → DOH (PAL)	Qatar Airways	Doha

A note on cost: connecting through Doha on Qatar Airways tends to be one of the more competitive options for Philippines–Europe fares. The alliance relationship doesn’t change fares directly, but it does open award redemption possibilities, meaning Mabuhay Miles or Avios could eventually pay for part or all of this journey.

Scenario 2: US to Philippines (and Back)

This is where the alliance benefit is most immediate and most significant. American Airlines flies to Manila from several US cities, and the relationship between American and PAL has been building for years. American filed to codeshare with PAL as far back as 2020. The alliance formalizes all of that.

Current PAL nonstop routes from the US to Manila: Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO), New York JFK, Honolulu (HNL), Seattle (SEA), and the upcoming Chicago O’Hare (ORD) starting November 9, 2026.

For a Filipino-American flying home for the holidays from, say, Dallas or Atlanta, cities without nonstop Manila service. This is what the routing looks like with alliance integration:

Dallas (American Airlines) → Los Angeles (American Airlines) → Manila (PAL). Under alliance rules, this is one journey. One check-in at DFW. Bag checked to MNL. Miles earned on both legs, into whichever program you hold status in, AAdvantage or Mabuhay Miles. If you’re an AAdvantage Executive Platinum, you board the PAL flight with priority. You might have lounge access in LA during the layover.

The same logic works in reverse. A Filipino departing Manila to visit family in Houston or Chicago: board a PAL flight, earn AAdvantage miles on that leg, connect to an American Airlines domestic flight, and your status is recognized end to end.

Departure City (US)	Connection Point	PAL Leg to Manila
Los Angeles (LAX)	Direct on PAL	MNL nonstop
San Francisco (SFO)	Direct on PAL	MNL nonstop
New York (JFK)	Direct on PAL	MNL nonstop
Chicago (ORD)	Direct on PAL (from Nov 9, 2026)	MNL nonstop
Dallas (DFW)	American Airlines → LAX or SFO	PAL MNL nonstop
Atlanta (ATL)	American Airlines → LAX	PAL MNL nonstop
Miami (MIA)	American Airlines → LAX	PAL MNL nonstop
Boston (BOS)	American Airlines → JFK or LAX	PAL MNL nonstop

For travelers departing from cities without a direct US-to-Manila PAL flight, the alliance means their domestic American Airlines leg and the PAL transpacific leg are part of a coordinated itinerary, not two separate bookings held together with luck.

Scenario 3: Within the Philippines, Then Onward

This is a scenario that doesn’t get talked about enough: the domestic-to-international connection.

Imagine flying from Davao (PAL) to Manila, then connecting to Tokyo on Japan Airlines, then onward to Frankfurt on Finnair. Before the alliance, the Davao–Manila leg is a separate domestic booking. Your bags don’t automatically transfer. Your status isn’t recognized. You re-check in at Manila.

After full integration: PAL’s domestic Philippine routes become the first leg of a through-Oneworld itinerary. Siargao, Davao, Cagayan de Oro, Puerto Princesa, Iloilo: any destination PAL serves domestically can theoretically be the starting point of a single alliance ticket that ends in Tokyo, Sydney, London, or New York. Your bag goes all the way. Your status travels with you.

This is significant for a country spread across more than 7,600 islands. For the first time, a traveler departing from a smaller Philippine city has access to a fully coordinated international journey on one ticket, rather than stitching together a domestic booking and two separate international ones.

What ‘Coordinated’ Actually Means at the Airport

The practical differences become clearest when things go slightly sideways, which in air travel happens more often than we’d like.

If your PAL flight from Manila arrives late in Doha and you miss your Qatar Airways connection to London, the alliance structure means the second carrier is obligated to rebook you on the next available alliance flight. Your luggage follows. You’re not left arguing with two different airlines about whose fault the delay was, or rebooking out of pocket. One ticket, one set of obligations.

Similarly, if you’re flying from LA to Manila and your American Airlines domestic connection to LAX is delayed, PAL will be aware of the interline situation and can hold or rebook accordingly, within the limits of what the alliance agreement covers. It’s not a guarantee that everything goes perfectly, but it’s a fundamentally better framework than two independent bookings that don’t talk to each other.

What to Watch For

This is a developing story. Over the next 12 to 18 months, watch for:

PAL’s official formal entry date into Oneworld (announced on oneworld.com and philippineairlines.com)
Updated Mabuhay Miles earning charts for partner airlines
Award seat availability opening on PAL through AAdvantage, Qantas Frequent Flyer, and Avios
New codeshare agreements with member airlines (American, British Airways, JAL, Cathay)
The November 9, 2026 launch of nonstop Manila–Chicago flights

I’ll update this guide as the picture gets clearer. For now, the most important thing is to have an active Mabuhay Miles account and to know where your frequent flyer points sit.

For over eight decades, Philippine Airlines has connected Filipinos to the world. This is the next chapter of that.

Frequently asked questions

When does PAL officially join Oneworld?

The MOU was signed on June 6, 2026. Formal membership is expected in 2027, though an exact date hasn’t been confirmed yet. Benefits roll out in phases, starting with partnerships that are already live (Qatar Airways miles, Alaska Airlines) and expanding as IT systems are integrated.

Do I need to do anything to my Mabuhay Miles account?

Not immediately. Once PAL formally enters the alliance, Mabuhay Miles will automatically be eligible for earning and redemption across Oneworld carriers. Keep your account active (some programs lapse if unused for 36 months) and make sure your personal details are current.

Will regular economy passengers benefit, or only elite members?

Both, but differently. Anyone flying on PAL or any Oneworld carrier will be able to earn miles that accumulate in one account. Elite benefits, including lounge access, priority check-in, and extra baggage, are tiered by status. The more you fly, the more you unlock. Even at the basic level, having miles that work across 16 airlines instead of one is a genuine improvement.

Which Oneworld airlines already fly to Manila?

Several already serve Manila: American Airlines (Los Angeles, Dallas), Cathay Pacific (Hong Kong), Japan Airlines (Tokyo), Qantas (Sydney, Melbourne, codeshare via Jetstar), Malaysia Airlines (Kuala Lumpur), and Qatar Airways (Doha). British Airways and Finnair connect through other hubs. With PAL in the alliance, these connections become part of a more unified network.

Is this the same as a codeshare agreement?

No. A codeshare is a simpler arrangement where one airline sells seats on another’s flights under its own flight number. An alliance is broader: it includes codeshares, but also shared lounges, reciprocal elite status, mile earning across all carriers, coordinated schedules, and interline baggage agreements. Alliance membership is a much deeper integration than a bilateral codeshare.

What about the other Philippine Airlines routes: Cebu, Davao, Clark?

PAL operates from Cebu (CEB) as a secondary hub and serves domestic routes from Clark, Davao, and other Philippine cities. These domestic routes are expected to be part of the alliance network, making it easier for Oneworld travelers arriving internationally to connect into the archipelago on a single ticket. The specifics of which domestic routes are available as part of Oneworld itineraries will become clearer once codeshare agreements are filed.

One With Everything: You Are Nature Remembering Itself

Merald Ayson — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 18:28:12 GMT

It was a quiet travel day. No itinerary, no border to cross before noon. Just a cup of tea, a bench overlooking a river, and enough stillness to actually hear the water.

I had been moving for weeks: buses and ferries, cities and forests, one country folding into the next. But that morning, sitting with my hands wrapped around warm ceramic, something simple landed. Not dramatically. Just: oh.

I wasn’t watching the river. I was recognizing it.

About 60% of the human body is water. The same water that falls as rain, runs to the sea, rises as vapor, and falls again. The river in front of me and the liquid in my cells have been part of the same system for billions of years. We are not visitors to this planet. We are, in a very literal sense, made of it.

This is what travel keeps teaching me. Not that nature is beautiful (it is), but that the boundary between nature and the person observing it is thinner than we’re taught to believe.

Water

Sit long enough beside any body of water and it starts to feel less like scenery and more like conversation.

I’ve noticed this at a river in northern Thailand, at the sea off Sarangani, at a mountain stream in Laos after a long climb. The water moves with a kind of memory: it has been here before, in different forms, and it will pass through again. Glaciers melt into rivers that become rain that becomes you, briefly, before returning.

The science is not poetic license. The water molecules in your body right now may have once flowed through an ancient ocean, through the body of a dinosaur, through a cloud over a continent you’ve never visited. You are, quite literally, a temporary arrangement of the world’s water.

I think about this when travel feels like too much: the constant motion, the adjusting to new places, the exhaustion of not knowing where things are. Water doesn’t resist the shape of the riverbank. It moves with it, finds the path of least resistance, and keeps going. There’s something worth learning in that.

Earth

The minerals in your bones—calcium, phosphorus, magnesium—were forged in stars that died long before the Earth existed. They settled here over billions of years, accumulated in living things, and eventually, through a chain of meals and metabolisms too long to trace, became the skeleton you use to hike up mountains.

I think about this most on long climbs. There’s a specific kind of tired that comes from several hours on a trail: the legs start to feel heavy, each step deliberate. And there’s something grounding (there’s no better word) about sitting on bare earth or rock at a summit, your hands on the ground, your body aligned with something much older than you.

The mountain is not a backdrop. You and the mountain share material history. The same geology that pushed the rock up through the earth’s crust left traces in your body. Not metaphorically, but chemically.

Slow travel surfaces this more than rushing does. When you move quickly, a mountain is a view. When you move slowly, it becomes something you participate in.

Air

One of the stranger pleasures of travel is breathing new air. And I mean that plainly, not poetically. The air in a pine forest smells different from the air near the sea. Air in Sagada carries cold and soil. Air in Manila carries everything at once. Air in a paddy field after rain is thick and green-smelling and almost edible.

Each breath is an exchange. Oxygen in, carbon dioxide out. The oxygen you’re breathing right now was produced by plants and phytoplankton doing photosynthesis. Some of it has cycled through other lungs before yours. Some of the air you exhale will end up in a tree.

This is not a metaphor for connection. It is connection, happening on a molecular level, right now, whether or not you think about it.

But thinking about it changes something. The air stops being something you move through and becomes something you’re participating in. Every forest you walk into is partly producing the air you’re using to walk. You are not separate from the ecosystem. You are one of its processes.

Fire

Fire is the one element that doesn’t live in your body the way the others do. You are not made of fire. But you run on it.

Every cell in your body burns fuel through a process called cellular respiration: food molecules oxidized to release energy. The warmth you feel from the inside is metabolic heat. The energy that lets you climb a hill or stay awake on a long bus ride came, ultimately, from the sun. Through plants, through the food chain, through you.

The sun that rises over a ridge you’ve been watching all morning is the same source as the warmth in your hands. The boundary between the fire outside and the fire inside is thinner than it looks.

I find this one the easiest to feel on early mornings: that first warmth on cold skin, the way energy returns with light. It is not just comfort. It is the most fundamental fuel exchange on the planet, and you are in the middle of it.

What Travel Does to This

You don’t need to travel to understand any of this. The science is the same whether you’re in your bedroom or on a riverbank in a foreign country.

But travel strips away the familiar. When everything around you is new—the sounds, the light, the smell of the air, the texture of the ground—you tend to notice more. The brain that usually filters out background sensation has to stay alert. That alertness, if you let it, extends to the physical world you’re moving through.

You start to notice the river. Really notice it: the speed of the current near the bank versus the middle, the way light hits the water differently depending on the cloud cover, the sound it makes on stone. And somewhere in that attention, the distance collapses. It stops being scenery. It starts being something you’re part of.

The ancient Greek philosopher Heraclitus wrote that you cannot step into the same river twice: the water has moved, and so have you. But he might have also noted that the river and the person stepping into it share more than the moment. They share material. They share history. They share the same basic planetary chemistry, shaped by the same forces, over the same immense stretch of time.

That’s what a quiet travel morning can surface, if you let it.

The Simplest Reminder

You don’t have to travel far to feel this. You don’t even have to travel at all. Sit beside any moving water. Put your hand on bare rock. Step outside and breathe slowly. Let the warmth of the sun land on your skin and stay with it for a moment.

The world you are moving through is not separate from you. You are a temporary, walking arrangement of it: water that has circled the earth, minerals from dead stars, air shared with every breathing thing, warmth borrowed from the sun.

Travel, at its quietest, is the practice of remembering this. Not dramatically. Just: oh. I’ve been here all along.

Your First International Flight from the Philippines: A Step-by-Step Guide

Merald Ayson — Thu, 11 Jun 2026 05:29:27 GMT

So you finally booked that flight. Maybe it’s your first time stepping into an international airport, or maybe you’ve done domestic trips before but everything about leaving the country still feels unclear. Either way, this guide is for you.

Flying internationally for the first time isn’t complicated once you know the sequence. There’s a specific order to everything, and once you understand what happens at each step and why, the whole airport experience starts to feel manageable. This guide walks you through it from the moment you’re packing at home to the moment you board your flight.

Step 1: Get Your Documents in Order Before You Leave Home

The most important thing you can do before you even get to the airport is to have your documents sorted. Don’t wait until the night before. Here’s what you need for international travel:

Your Passport

Your passport is the non-negotiable document. No passport, no travel. But here’s the part many first-timers miss: your passport needs to be valid for at least 6 months beyond your travel dates. If you’re flying in June and your passport expires in October of the same year, many countries will deny you entry. Renew it well in advance, and check that it’s in good physical condition. Torn pages or significant water damage can cause problems at immigration.

Your Visa (If Required)

Not every destination requires Filipinos to apply for a visa in advance. ASEAN member states and several other countries allow visa-free or visa-on-arrival entry for Philippine passport holders. For destinations like the US, UK, Canada, Japan, and Schengen countries in Europe, you’ll need to apply through the relevant embassy before your trip.

Start the application early, ideally 1 to 3 months before your trip. Some embassies have long appointment waiting times, and a delayed application can derail a trip that’s already been booked. Always verify the current visa requirements for your specific destination before you buy your ticket, as these policies change.

Supporting Documents

Even if your destination doesn’t require a visa, Philippine immigration officers and foreign border agents both want to see that your trip is real and that you plan to return home. These are the supporting documents worth having ready:

Return flight booking: proof you have a flight back to the Philippines.
Hotel or accommodation confirmation: where you’re staying.
Proof of funds: a bank statement, credit card, or cash to show you can support yourself during the trip.
Employment certificate or business permit: something that ties you back home.
Rough trip itinerary: a simple day-by-day plan. A notes app on your phone works fine.
Travel insurance: not always required, but strongly recommended. More on this below.

Step 2: Arrive at the Airport Early

For international flights, arrive at the airport at least 3 to 4 hours before your departure time. That sounds like a lot until you’re actually there. Check-in lines, travel tax payment, immigration queues, security screening, and the walk to your gate all take time. At NAIA or any major Philippine airport during peak travel periods, lines move slower than you’d expect.

Have your passport and flight booking ready before you reach the airport entrance. Security guards check these before letting you into the terminal.

Step 3: Pay the Travel Tax

Here’s something a lot of first-time travelers don’t find out about until they’re already at the airport: Filipino citizens are required to pay the TIEZA travel tax before departing the country on international flights.

Reduced rates apply for certain travelers: minors, OFW dependents, journalists on assignment, and some diplomats. OFWs themselves are fully exempt. Check the TIEZA website for the full list of exemptions.

Travel Tax Rates	First Class Flights	Economy Class Flights
Full Travel Tax	PHP 2,700.00	PHP 1,620
Standard Reduced Travel Tax	PHP 1,350.00	PHP 810.00
Privileged Reduced Travel Tax for a Dependent of an Overseas Filipino Worker (OFW)	PHP 400.00	PHP 300.00

You can pay at the TIEZA counters inside the airport, or ahead of time through the TIEZA travel tax online payment portal or authorized payment centers. Some airlines now collect it during online check-in as well. Check before you fly.

If you pay physically at the airport, keep your receipt. You’ll need it at the check-in counter as part of your departure documents.

Step 4: Check In and Get Your Boarding Pass

Find your airline’s check-in counter using the large departure board monitors in the terminal. The check-in process is how the airline confirms you’ve arrived for your flight. Present your passport and travel tax receipt (if paid at the airport). Then prepare your bags for weighing and handover.

There are two types of baggage to understand:

Checked Baggage

This is the large bag or suitcase that goes in the cargo hold. For international economy class, most airlines allow between 20 and 30 kg. Weigh your bag at home before you leave. Overweight fees at the counter are steep and can cost more than adding baggage during online booking.

Lock your luggage. If you’re flying to or through the US, use a TSA-approved lock, since security personnel may need to open your bag without you present. Before you hand it over, tag it with your name and contact number, and take a photo of it in case you ever need to file a claim.

Hand Carry (Carry-On Baggage)

This is the bag you keep with you in the cabin. Budget airlines typically allow 7 kg; full-service carriers usually allow 7 to 10 kg, plus a small personal item like a laptop bag or purse. Your carry-on needs to fit in the overhead compartment. The standard size limit is roughly 56 x 36 x 23 cm. Some airlines are strict about this. If you’re on a budget carrier, expect your bag to be weighed.

Keep your valuables, important documents, and electronics in your carry-on. Never check in anything you can’t afford to lose.

After check-in, you’ll receive a printed boarding pass with your gate number and seat. Double-check that your name and flight details are correct.

Step 5: Know What You Can and Can’t Bring

Liquids

The rule to memorize: 3-1-1. Liquids, gels, and aerosols must be in containers of 100 mL or less. All of them go into one clear, resealable plastic bag no larger than 1 liter in size. One bag per passenger, in your carry-on. Anything above 100 mL goes in your checked luggage. This covers shampoo, conditioner, lotion, toothpaste, perfume, and face wash, basically anything that pours or squirts.

Powerbanks

Powerbanks must always go in your carry-on. This is a firm global aviation safety rule, not a suggestion. They are never allowed in checked luggage. The generally accepted limit is up to 100 Wh (roughly 20,000 mAh). Some airlines allow up to 160 Wh with prior approval.

Electronics and Gadgets

Laptops, cameras, tablets, and other devices should all be in your carry-on. All devices with lithium batteries belong in the cabin, not the cargo hold. At security, take your laptop out and place it in its own tray. Cameras with detachable lenses may get a second look from security staff. It’s routine.

Step 6: Register on eTravel Before You Get to Immigration

Before you approach the immigration counter, you need to register on etravel.gov.ph. This is the Philippine government’s online travel registration platform, required for all passengers departing and arriving in the Philippines. Think of it as a digital record of your travel details that immigration and health authorities use to monitor the flow of travelers in and out of the country.

How to register:

Go to etravel.gov.ph on your phone or computer.
Fill in your personal details, flight information, and passport number.
Submit, then save the QR code you receive. Screenshot it, or open it in a browser tab that doesn’t require internet to load.
Show the QR code at the immigration counter.

Do this at least a day before your flight. It’s free and takes about five minutes the first time.

Step 7: Clearing Philippine Departure Immigration

After check-in, you’ll proceed to the departure immigration area. A Philippine immigration officer will review your documents and decide whether to stamp you out of the country. Have your passport, boarding pass, and eTravel QR code ready while you wait in line.

When you reach the counter, the officer will ask a few standard questions. Answer honestly and directly. Here’s what to expect:

Question	How to Answer
Where are you going?	Name the country and city.
What is the purpose of your trip?	Tourism, vacation, business, etc.
How long will you be staying?	Give the number of days.
Do you have a hotel booking?	Yes. Have it ready to show on your phone.
Do you have a return ticket?	Yes. Pull it up on your phone or have a printout.
What do you do for work?	State your job and source of income.
Who are you traveling with?	Point to your companions, or say you’re traveling solo.

A few things that help: dress neatly, keep your documents organized and easy to access, and if you’ve booked tours or have a rough itinerary, having it on hand shows your trip is purposeful. You don’t need to bring printed documents if you have everything accessible on your phone.

Once the officer stamps your passport, you’re through. Tuck it away safely and head toward security.

Step 8: Security Screening

After immigration, your carry-on bags go through an X-ray machine, and you walk through a body scanner or metal detector. It moves quickly when you’re prepared.

Minimize metal. Belts, watches, and metal-buckle sandals set off the scanner. Wear easy-to-remove accessories or just skip them for travel days.
Dress in light layers. A thick jacket may need to come off and go through the X-ray separately. Have it ready to remove before you reach the conveyor.
Pack your liquids in a clear bag and keep them near the top of your carry-on so they’re easy to pull out.
Take your laptop out and place it in its own tray before the conveyor.
Remove your shoes if security staff asks, as some airports require it for international flights.

Step 9: Find Your Gate and Board Your Flight

After security, check your boarding pass for your gate number, then find it on the departure board, the large screen showing all flights and their current gates. Large airports have long corridors, so give yourself time if your gate is at the far end.

While you wait to board, keep an ear on announcements and glance at the departure monitors periodically, as gates can change. It’s also a good window to grab something to eat, or just sit and people-watch.

Boarding typically begins 30 to 45 minutes before departure, with passengers called by group or row. Have your boarding pass and passport out when it’s your turn. Walk down the jetbridge, find your seat, stow your carry-on, and settle in.

That’s it. Every step done. The first time is always the one that feels the most uncertain, and it only gets easier from here.

Managing Money on Your International Trip

Sorting out money before you fly is one of the more practical things you can do for yourself. Here’s how I handle it:

Cash Exchange

If you want pesos-to-foreign-currency exchange before you leave, avoid airport counters when possible. Their rates tend to be less favorable. Accredited money changers in major cities usually offer better rates.

ATM Withdrawals at Your Destination

My preferred method is withdrawing cash from a local ATM when I land. ATMs abroad typically apply the real mid-market exchange rate with minimal markup, especially with the right card. The value is almost always better than what you’d get from a money changer here. To make this work, you need a Philippine bank or fintech card with low or zero foreign transaction fees. I personally use Wise, GCash, GoTyme, and my BPI card for this reason.

A Few More Practical Tips

Carry enough foreign cash when you land to cover airport transport and your first meal or two. You don’t want to be searching for a working ATM while jet-lagged and dragging luggage. I always keep some US dollar bills as a backup.
Tell your bank you’re traveling before you leave. Some banks freeze cards that suddenly start transacting internationally. A quick in-app travel notification prevents this.
Use a card with a Visa or Mastercard logo for the widest acceptance.
When an ATM abroad offers to charge you in Philippine Pesos instead of local currency, choose local currency. The Peso option (called dynamic currency conversion) almost always applies a worse rate than your own bank would.

A Note on Travel Insurance

For Schengen countries (most of Europe), travel insurance isn’t optional. It’s required for the visa application. For most other destinations, it’s a strong recommendation rather than a requirement. Travel insurance covers medical emergencies, trip cancellations, delayed flights, and lost luggage. The cost is modest compared to what any of those problems would cost out of pocket. I use SafetyWing for international travel coverage.

Frequently asked questions

Can I travel internationally without a visa?

Yes, for many destinations. Filipinos can enter ASEAN countries: Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and others. Entry is visa-free or visa-on-arrival. There are other destinations outside ASEAN that also offer visa-free access. Always verify the current entry requirements for your specific destination before booking, as these policies change.

How valid does my passport need to be?

Most countries require at least 6 months of validity beyond your travel dates. Some only require 3 months, but 6 months is the safer standard. Check the specific requirement for your destination, and renew early if you’re close to either threshold.

What if I get questioned at immigration?

Stay calm and be honest. The most common reasons travelers are held up at Philippine departure immigration are a missing return ticket, no hotel booking, or being unable to show proof of funds. Having all three prepared and accessible on your phone dramatically reduces the likelihood of any issue.

Can I put my powerbank in my checked luggage?

No. Powerbanks must always be in your carry-on. This is a global aviation safety rule, not an airline preference, and it is enforced without exception.

How much cash should I bring when traveling internationally?

Enough to cover your first day: airport transport, a meal or two, and any unexpected small expenses before you find an ATM. The equivalent of around USD 100 to 200 as a backup is a reasonable safety net for most destinations.

Do I need to print my documents?

Not necessarily. I’ve never brought printed documents on any of my international trips and it has always worked out. The key is having everything easily accessible on your phone: boarding pass, hotel booking, return flight, and eTravel QR code. Offline access or screenshots are better than relying on airport Wi-Fi.

What’s the difference between a direct and a connecting flight?

A direct or nonstop flight goes straight from your origin to your destination with no stops. A connecting flight has a layover in another city or country, where you board a second plane. If your layover is in a country that would normally require a visa for Filipinos, check whether you need a transit visa, as some countries require one even if you’re only passing through.

Can I do online check-in for international flights?

Yes. Most airlines open online check-in 24 to 48 hours before departure. If you’re not checking a bag, you can often go straight to immigration with your phone-based boarding pass. Check if your airport also has a self-bag drop counter to save time.

Preparation is what makes the difference between a nervous first flight and a smooth one. Have your documents ready, pack within the limits, register on eTravel before you go, and give yourself enough time at the airport. Everything else follows from that.

If you’re flying domestically within the Philippines, the process is significantly simpler. I’ve written a separate domestic flight guide for Filipinos that covers what you need for local trips.

Your First Domestic Flight in the Philippines: A Step-by-Step Guide

Merald Ayson — Thu, 11 Jun 2026 05:30:44 GMT

Flying domestically within the Philippines is one of the more straightforward travel experiences you can have. No immigration booth, no visa, no travel tax. You show up with a valid ID, check in, go through security, and board your flight. That’s the whole thing.

But if it’s your first time at an airport, even a simple process can feel unfamiliar. This guide walks you through every step, so you know exactly what to expect from the moment you arrive at the terminal to the moment you board.

If you’re planning to fly internationally, the process is more involved. I have a separate international flight guide for Filipinos that covers immigration, the travel tax, eTravel registration, and everything else that comes with leaving the country.

Step 1: What Documents Do You Need?

For domestic flights, you only need one thing: a valid government-issued ID. Any of these will work:

Philippine passport
Driver’s license
PhilSys national ID
UMID
SSS, GSIS, or PRC ID
Voter’s ID
Postal ID

That’s it. No supporting documents, no bank statements, no return ticket required. Just your ID and your flight booking confirmation, which you’ll need to show at the airport entrance.

Step 2: How Early Should You Arrive?

For domestic flights, arriving 2 hours before your departure is the standard. That gives you enough time for check-in, security, and finding your gate without rushing.

During peak travel seasons, add an extra 30 minutes to that. Holy Week, the Christmas break, and the summer months of April and May are the busiest periods for domestic air travel in the Philippines. Airports like NAIA Terminal 3, Mactan-Cebu, and Clark get genuinely packed. A little extra buffer goes a long way.

Step 3: Check In and Get Your Boarding Pass

Once you’re inside the terminal, find your airline’s check-in counter. The large departure board monitors will show which counters are assigned to each flight. Present your ID and flight booking confirmation to the airline staff, then prepare your bags for weighing.

Checked Baggage

Checked baggage is the large bag or suitcase that goes in the cargo hold. For domestic flights, the allowance depends on your ticket type and airline. Budget airlines like Cebu Pacific and AirAsia Philippines typically don’t include checked baggage in their base fares. If you’re bringing a suitcase, add it to your booking online ahead of time. It’s significantly cheaper than paying at the counter.

Tag your bag with your name and a contact number before you hand it over. Taking a quick photo of your luggage is also a good habit in case you ever need to file a claim.

Hand Carry (Carry-On Baggage)

Hand carry is the bag you keep with you in the cabin. Budget airlines like Cebu Pacific typically allow 7 kg; full-service carriers like Philippine Airlines usually allow 7 to 10 kg, plus a small personal item. Your bag also needs to fit in the overhead compartment.

Budget airlines enforce hand-carry limits more strictly than full-service carriers. If you’re on Cebu Pacific or AirAsia, weigh your bag at home before you leave. Excess baggage fees at the counter are steep.

Online Check-In

Most domestic airlines allow online check-in through their websites or mobile apps. If you’re not checking a bag, online check-in lets you skip the counter entirely and go straight to security with your phone-based boarding pass.

Download your boarding pass to your phone or take a screenshot before you leave the house. Don’t rely on finding airport Wi-Fi to pull it up.

After check-in, you’ll receive a boarding pass showing your gate number and seat. Double-check that your name and flight details are correct.

Step 4: What You Can and Can’t Bring

The same baggage rules that apply to international flights apply domestically. A few to keep in mind:

Liquids

Liquids, gels, and aerosols in your carry-on must follow the 3-1-1 rule: containers of 100 mL or less, packed into one clear resealable plastic bag, one bag per passenger. Anything above 100 mL goes in your checked luggage. This covers shampoo, lotion, toothpaste, perfume, and similar items.

Powerbanks

Powerbanks must always go in your carry-on. They are never allowed in checked luggage. This is a global aviation safety rule and applies to domestic flights as well. The standard limit is up to 100 Wh, roughly 20,000 mAh.

Sharp Objects and Prohibited Items

Bladed items, scissors longer than 6 cm, and similar sharp objects must go in your checked luggage. Flammable liquids, firearms, and explosives are prohibited entirely. When in doubt, check your airline’s prohibited items list before you pack.

Step 5: Security Screening

Domestic security moves faster than international because there’s no immigration involved, but the process is the same. Your bags go through an X-ray machine, and you walk through a body scanner or metal detector.

Keep metal accessories minimal. Belts, watches, and metal-buckle sandals will set off the scanner. Slip-on shoes help.
Have your liquids bag near the top of your carry-on so it’s easy to pull out.
Take your laptop out and place it in a separate tray before the conveyor.
Remove your jacket if you’re wearing one; you may be asked to run it through the X-ray separately.

Step 6: Find Your Gate and Board

After security, check your boarding pass for your gate number and confirm it on the departure board. Domestic terminals are generally smaller and easier to navigate than international ones, but give yourself a few minutes to walk if your gate is at the far end.

While you wait to board, keep an ear on announcements and glance at the departure monitors periodically. Gates can change. It’s also a good window to grab something to eat, or just sit and people-watch.

Boarding typically begins 30 minutes before departure for domestic flights. Have your boarding pass and ID ready when your row or group is called. Stow your carry-on in the overhead bin, settle in, and you’re done.

A Quick Comparison: Domestic vs. International Flights

If you’ve read the international guide and are wondering how the two compare, here’s the short version:

	Domestic	International
Documents needed	Valid government ID	Passport (+ visa if required)
Travel tax	None	Required for Filipinos
eTravel registration	Not required	Required
Immigration	None	Philippine departure immigration
Arrive how early	2 hours before	3 to 4 hours before
Baggage rules	Same liquids and powerbank rules	Same liquids and powerbank rules
Online check-in	Available for most airlines	Available for most airlines

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a passport to fly domestically in the Philippines?

No. A passport works as an ID, but it’s not required. Any valid government-issued ID will do: driver’s license, PhilSys national ID, UMID, voter’s ID, and others are all accepted.

Can I bring food on a domestic flight?

Yes. Solid food is allowed in both carry-on and checked baggage. Liquids and semi-liquids (soups, sauces, jams, bottled drinks) in your carry-on still need to follow the 100 mL rule. If you’re bringing pasalubong in liquid or gel form, pack it in your checked bag.

What if I only have hand carry? Can I skip the check-in counter?

Yes, if you’ve done online check-in. Download your boarding pass to your phone before you leave home, and you can go straight to security. Check whether your airport has a dedicated online check-in lane, which moves faster.

Can I put my powerbank in my checked luggage?

No. Powerbanks must always be in your carry-on, on domestic and international flights alike. This is a firm aviation safety rule, not an airline preference.

How strict are budget airlines about hand-carry weight?

Cebu Pacific and AirAsia Philippines can be strict, especially on busy routes. They do weigh carry-on bags at the gate on some flights. Weigh your bag at home before you leave and stay within the limit. The excess baggage fee at the counter is much higher than adding baggage during online booking.

What should I do if my flight is delayed or cancelled?

Go to your airline’s service counter at the airport. Under Philippine law, airlines are required to provide meals, refreshments, or vouchers for significant delays, and to rebook or refund passengers in the case of cancellations. Keep your boarding pass and booking confirmation accessible. If you booked through a third-party site, contact both the site and the airline.

Are there things I should book in advance for my destination?

For popular destinations like Palawan, Siargao, Bohol, and Cebu, it’s worth booking activities ahead of time, especially during peak season. I book tours and experiences through Klook, which lets you skip the hassle of negotiating on the ground and shows you what’s available before you arrive.

Domestic flying in the Philippines is genuinely easy once you’ve done it once. The archipelago has over 7,600 islands, and a one-hour flight can take you somewhere that would otherwise be an entire day of travel by sea. That access is worth getting comfortable with.

When you’re ready to fly internationally, the process is more involved but still very manageable. Start with the international flight guide for Filipinos for a full walkthrough.

Siargao Before Cloud 9: The Island History Nobody Tells You

Merald Ayson — Tue, 30 Jun 2026 15:03:18 GMT

Photo by Czarinah Philline Rayray

The first time I came to Siargao, someone told me: “You’ll leave, and then you’ll spend the rest of the year figuring out how to get back.”

They were right. I’ve gone back every year since 2024. I have friends there now, people I look for when I arrive and say goodbye to, like it means something when I leave. General Luna knows me well enough that I know which spots have the best rice at lunch and which ones have been there long enough to outlast three typhoon seasons.

But here’s what I kept thinking about on one of my last trips, sitting on the seawall watching the sun go down over the coconut palms: this island has been beautiful for a very long time. Much longer than any surf magazine knew it existed.

The Cloud 9 era gets all the headlines. And it earned them. But Siargao had a whole life before anyone named a wave after a chocolate bar.

The Name Is Older Than the Tourism

Start with this: the island’s name has nothing to do with surfing, and nothing to do with the Spanish.

The name Siargao comes from the Visayan words siargaw or saliargaw, a species of mangrove called Premna odorata that once grew abundantly along its shores. The island was named after a plant that grew at the water’s edge, filtering the sea, anchoring the shore, and quietly holding the ecosystem together.

There’s something right about that. Before it was a surf destination, before it was a travel influencer backdrop, Siargao was a place where the land and the sea were the same conversation.

The island also hosts one of the largest mangrove forest reserves in Mindanao, covering nearly 4,871 hectares in Del Carmen. Those mangroves were not planted for a festival or a conservation campaign. They were what was there before everything else.

Photo by Nay Palad

The First People Here

The pre-colonial inhabitants of Siargao were part of the broader indigenous populations of the Caraga region, including Negrito groups such as the Mamanwa, who represent some of the archipelago’s earliest settlers with origins tracing to Paleolithic migrations estimated at up to 50,000 years ago. They were not a centralized civilization with palaces and written records. They lived in small kin-based communities, hunting, fishing, gathering honey and shellfish in the mangroves.

The early settlers were skilled fishermen, boat builders, and traders, navigating the waters of the Pacific long before European explorers set foot in the Philippines.

And they were not isolated. According to records from Song Dynasty China and archaeological discoveries, including the Surigao Treasures, Siargao sat astride rich maritime trading routes. The Rajahnate of Butuan, just to the southwest, led a Visayan trade alliance that dealt in spices from Ternate, silk from China, sandalwood from East Timor, gold from Caraga, and camphor from Brunei. This region was not a backwater. It was a node in a network that connected the islands of Southeast Asia centuries before any European ship arrived.

The waves were breaking at Cloud 9 throughout it all. Nobody was counting sets.

A Spanish Sailor Names It the Island of Palms

The first recorded European sighting of Siargao was by Bernardo de la Torre, aboard the carrack San Juan de Letrán in 1543, when attempting to return from Sarangani to New Spain. He saw the island from the water, charted it, and called it Isla de las Palmas: the Island of Palms.

De la Torre was sailing under Ruy López de Villalobos on a failed expedition to establish a greater Spanish presence in the East Indies. Stuck for months on the eastern side of Mindanao, the expedition ran low on supplies and was ordered to leave by the Portuguese. Villalobos sent de la Torre east across the Pacific to seek supplies and reinforcements from Mexico. Siargao was a landmark on that desperate voyage home. Not a destination. Just a shape on the horizon.

The name stuck in European charts even as the island’s own people kept calling it by the mangrove.

Missionaries reached the Caraga region by 1622. By 1655, Siargao was placed under Spanish encomienda, and the island was gradually organized into pueblos, with Dapa and Caolo among the earliest administrative centers. Catholicism arrived with the missionaries, and the Sto. Tomas de Villanueva Parish in General Luna still stands today, a few minutes from the surf break, easy to miss if you’re heading to the boardwalk.

Despite the changes that colonization brought, many local practices remained rooted in earlier ways of living, especially in food preparation, fishing methods, and social cooperation. The colonial centuries reshaped the surface of things. They did not replace what was underneath.

A Quiet Island for a Long Time

For most of recorded history after the Spanish era, Siargao was simply a fishing island. Families in General Luna, Dapa, Del Carmen, and the other municipalities lived the way island people have always lived: with the tide, with the season, with the catch.

Siargao remained a quiet fishing island until the 1980s, when international surfers first discovered the wave that would eventually be called Cloud 9.

That word deserves a moment: quiet. It’s not a criticism. Quiet meant the mangroves were intact. Quiet meant the reefs were healthy. Quiet meant people knew each other’s names and boats and the particular way the swell moved in September. Quiet meant it was a place before it was a brand.

The Wave, the Name, and the Beginning of Something Else

Surfing arrived in Siargao in June 1980, when Tony Arruza and Steve Jones came to General Luna in search of a perfect wave. They surfed the area now known as the Jacking Horse, near what would become Cloud 9. Word spread quietly through the surfing world.

What happened next is the kind of story surfing mythology is built on. In December 1988, an American traveler called Max Walker arrived in General Luna carrying a battered surfboard, asking the local mayor for permission to camp at the deserted Tuason Point, 3 kilometers away. He befriended local villagers, surfed the break every day, and died there in April 1989 after an extended fast of 45 days. He had found what he was looking for. He didn’t leave.

Cloud 9 was named by American photographer John Seaton Callahan after a chocolate bar, and was featured in Surfer magazine in March 1993, then named one of the ten best surf trips of a lifetime in 1995.

At that time, there were no paved roads, no surf schools, and no steady electricity. Surfers stayed with locals, shared meals, and lived simply between tides. The island absorbed them the same way it had absorbed everyone who came before: slowly, on its own terms.

The Siargao International Surfing Cup brought the competitive circuit. The magazine spreads brought the wider world. And the wider world, in time, brought everything else: the resorts, the cafes, the question of what a place is worth when enough people want it.

My first time surfing in Siargao’s Cloud 9.

What a Typhoon Reminds You

On December 16, 2021, Typhoon Odette made its first landfall on Siargao. The boardwalk at Cloud 9 collapsed. Resorts were flattened. Coconut palms that had stood for decades came down.

General Luna accounted for three-fourths of the economic damage on the entire island, about 1.2 billion pesos in December 2021 values. Half of the 5,494 tourism workers affected were from General Luna. The island is home to over 136,000 people. Most coverage focused on the surf economy. The people who rebuilt Siargao were not tourists.

One local business owner said what a lot of people felt: “Dito kami nakatira. This is home.”

That sentence is the whole story, really. You can build a resort. You can name a wave after candy. You can sell the aesthetic of a place across a million posts. But the people who were there before the wave had a name, the people who stayed through the storm, the people who rebuilt with their own hands: they are the real continuity.

The recovery program was called Bangon Siargao: Rise, Siargao. Within a year, the island reopened, stronger and more mindful of what mattered most. The name Bangon Siargao sounds like it was always there, waiting to be used.

Photo by Jess Silaya

What Keeps Bringing Me Back

When I talk about Siargao as my home island, I’m not being poetic. I mean that I have people there. I mean that I know the rhythm of General Luna in the mornings, the way the light hits the water, the conversations that pick up where they left off.

But I also keep coming back because of what’s underneath the version of the island that went viral. The mangroves that gave it its name are still there in Del Carmen, designated as a Ramsar Site in January 2024, home to 245 animal species, including the vulnerable Philippine duck and the Southern rufous hornbill, and three threatened turtle species. The church in General Luna that the Spanish missionaries built is still there. The fishing boats still go out before dawn.

The wave that changed everything was already breaking before anyone decided it had to have a name.

That’s what I want people to understand when they come to Siargao. Not to feel guilty about discovering a place or to avoid the Cloud 9 boardwalk. Just to know that beauty this deep doesn’t appear from nowhere. It accumulates. Over centuries, over storms, over generations of people who chose to stay.